Thursday, April 24, 2014

Campusing Base and Component Moves + Exercises Page

Maintaining Power
Regardless of if and how you cycle your training, I'm convinced that maintaining power is critical. Not at 100%, but at maybe 80-90% of your peak at all times. Power can disappear quickly: if I don't train monos, I lose my mono strength very fast. But campusing, is powerful by nature, how does one best incorporate it into a training cycle? This was the problem I faced in my current cycle. The approach I took was new - to me.

Friday, April 18, 2014

Old Articles, New Goals, and The Lord of the Rungs

I finally found the time to OCR the PDFs of my old articles from Allez magazine. I posted them under the dates they were originally printed (see topic: training.old.) They feel dated to me - they are 20 years old; but Steve Edwards agrees that they're still directionally accurate. They probably aid me more than anyone else, as I'm always reviewing my training past for ideas to test in the future.

Rubble and The Lord of the Rungs
After hitting my base fitness level in the last cycle, I had two big goals heading into the fall. First and foremost was Rubble (13b) at the Owl Tor. It's short: 12 hand movements and three clips. Second is the first ever Lord of the Rungs campusing competition. Micah Elconin's genius idea; we've talked about it over the years, but Micah finally generated the necessary spirit to make it real. The Santa Barbara team would be competing against Hans Florine's team from Diablo Rock Gym.

Friday, April 11, 2014

Training Cycle Structure

Revamping My Training Cycles
On June 3, 2013, I decided to make 1-5-8.5 on the 1" rungs my birthday challenge for next year (June 5, 2014.) As I mention before, I broke it into 3 waypoint goals: 2 months each to do 1-4-7, 1-5-7, and 1-5-8. That left me six months to do 1-5-8.5. 1-4-7 was also an appropriate goal for me at the time because it's what I would consider my normal "base" level of fitness, which I was not at.

Friday, April 4, 2014

Theories & Rules - Training & Chess

As I said, I'm going to write one introductory "theory" article but after this my format is mainly going to be "I wanted to do <goal> so I did <training>. In the end I <result> and I think that's because of <interpretation>." There are already enough people out there taking the "do this workout" approach, which is good, and necessary; but that's not for me, and it's not the audience I'm looking for either. I'm not a great climber but I have trained, pretty scientifically, for over 20 years; so I think I'll have something useful for people.